How to Make a Gradient Leather Patch

Create or Import a Design

The first step in the process of an engraving with different “colors,” is to create or import a design into your software. I’m using the free XCS software because I’ll be running this on my xTool M1 Ultra, 10 watt diode laser but you can use Lightburn.

In the video tutorial above, I created a basic shape for a circular patch with a cutout. I manipulated some star and waving stripe cutouts and added some text. It was a very simple design created in just a couple of minutes but, you can use this on more complicated designs and images, as well.

It’s IMPORTANT TO NOTE that this is not the only way to get an engraving with a gradient, just an easy way.

You can use this gradient engraving technique on original graphics and designs, purchased / imported SVG files, text, or bitmap / PNG images.

Test Engraving on Material Being Used

If you’re new to laser engraving, you might be sick and tired of people telling you to “create a test grid.” Well… um… it’s good advice and I’m going to tell you the same.

When you’re working with materials like faux leather, the variance in quality sits on a LARGE spectrum – some patches are going to take less power, others more. The only way you’ll know if what settings will work for your laser and your material is to test.

My tests for a 10 watt diode range from 2-15 power, 100-150 speed, and 100-160 LPC.

Split the Design Into Parts

While I know that this is best shown in the video, if you’re reading this you don’t want to go to another spot. I get it, so I’m going to use the image below to explain how to split the design and set parameters.

When working with a vector file (SVG, EPS, DXF), you will either split the compound path or duplicate and delete portions of a design to get your gradient. You might have to ungroup items or release the compound paths.

In the above example, I’m going to make sure that my design has three parts that are independent of each other – there is a top, a middle, and a bottom piece. Those three parts are now going to be set at different power combinations to achieve the gradient.

SIDE NOTE: Bitmap Images or Photos

If you’re working with an imported flat or raster file or an image (photo, PNG, bitmap), you might have to split it into parts. You can do that by watching one of two quick video tutorials:

1. How to Split Images – Basic tutorial on splitting images.
2. How to Use Clipping Masks – Splitting images using specific shapes (to match projects, shapes, pre-made items, etc.)

Set Parameters for Each Part

The top portion (the star cutouts) should be a darker color than the bottom (stripes), so I set those to the next highest power. That was set to 10 power, 115 speed, 1 pass, and 140 LPC.

The bottom portion (the stripes) is my lightest color. Those were set to 6 power, 116 speed, 1 pass, and 140 LPC.

Burn and Clean the Engraved Patch

Once you have the settings, framing and engraving are the next steps. Once the patch has finished processing, I like to clean it with a bout of compressed air and life it out with a masking tape lift (use masking tape on the front to get any leftover soot).

Finally, I like to spray it with a bit of Dawn Powerwash, clean it gently, and let it dry. Then your gradient leather patch is ready for pressing or to be put in a hat patch bar in your shop or booth.